APC Cork Floors
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Click, Snap
Together Floating
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Installation |
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Cork is a natural product. Differences in
the structure and shades of the planks
occur naturally and cannot be accepted as
valid grounds for complaints.
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The cork planks should be acclimatized by
opening the boxes and leaving in the
middle of the room in which they are to be
laid for 48 hours
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Upon opening the boxes, check that all
planks are in the proper condition for
installation |
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Do not install cork floors in humid room
spaces such as bathrooms, saunas and
laundry rooms |
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Always leave a gap of approximately 3/8
between the edges of the flooring and
perimeter walls to allow for possible
expansion and movement |
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If the room in which the panels are to be
installed has under floor heating, the
surface must not exceed a temperature of
82 degrees. Under floor heating can lead
to the formation of cracks in the cork
during long heating periods |
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Surface Preparation: |
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Should the floor surface require leveling,
use a quick drying leveling plaster.
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Cement or cement-derivative floors should
be made impermeable with 0.2mm thick
polyethylene film in order to protect the
panels from sub-floor moisture.
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Cork panels may be laid directly on top of
PVC, linoleum, agglomerates or carpets. |
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After laying on the polyethylene film, we
recommend the use of a cork underlayment,
available in rolls and with a minimum
thickness of 2mm in order to improve the
sound insulation. When fitting the
underlayment, take care that the joins do
not coincide with the joins of the
polyethylene film. |
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The laying of the prefabricated cork
panels is so easy that one almost regrets
when the job is finished! |
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You will also need a hammer, set square,
saw, carpenters gauge, wooden wedges and
a wooden batten, plus a chisel. |
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Installation |
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Plan the installation before beginning to
lay the panels; measure the room/space in
which the panels are to be installed.
Normally the last row of panels has to be
cut longitudinally to adjust the panels to
remaining space. If the last row turns our
to be very narrow, the first row should
also be cut to match the dimensions of the
panels in the last row. |
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Leave a space of approximately 3/8
(expansion space) between the panels and
perimeter walls or around obstacles
(columns and pillars) Use wooden wedges. |
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If a wall is not straight use a ruler. The
first three rows should be laid using a
ruler. |
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Begin fitting the panels from left to
right, so that the male ridges of the
first panel faces the wall. Do not forget
to place wedges between the wall and the
panels. |
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Now insert the male ridge of the next
panels into the female groove in the
first panel at a slight angle and press
lightly on the females side (Fig. 4) Now
close the join between the transversal
edges and grooves using a suitable piece
of wood and mallet |
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To make the join for the last panel in the
row use a push bar. Do not forget to
insert the wedge between the panel and the
wall on the left-side |
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Begin the ensuing rows with the rest of
the last panel of the previous row (length
of at least 11.8). First fit the panel
lengthwise and then make the join by
hammering gently with a mallet and wood on
the female side. Then make the join on the
the transversal sides, once again using the
mallet. |
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The last row is attached to the preceding
row with the aid of the pull bar. Do not
forget to leave an expansion space of
approximately 3/8. |
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If you use a ruler, remove it after laying
3 or 4 rows and pull the panels together
in the direction of the wall. |
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Remove the wooden wedges and attach
quarter round, which should completely
cover the space left for the expansion of
the panels |
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Once the panels have been installed, it is
possible to walk on the floor covering
immediately. This is one of the advantages
of the speedy system. |
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