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Floor
Preparation Is A Vital Prerequisite
One of the largest reasons for failure with
glue down wood floors comes from lack of
attention to floor prep.
Many run of the mill installers often
overlook floor prep which comes back to
haunt every time. Typically the subfloor is
out of tolerance in relation to how
flat it should be. Many confuse
level with floor preparation. From
here forward it's flatness we
want to achieve.
Clean Subfloor
Prior to anything we need to clean the
subfloor of any paint, or drywall splatters
those others guys love to slop around. Many
installers will use a four inch floor
scraper and handle this procedure by hand,
but other options call for scarifying the
concrete with a heavy grit paper attached to
the bottom of a flooring buffer. Both items
can be obtained at many home improvement big
box stores. Specify a 12 grit rock paper
(seen below).
Failing to properly prep a concrete subfloor
for a glue down installation may lead to
separation of the hardwood with concrete and
glue. Thinking of sealers? It's a good idea
to use them but avoid anything that may be
slick. Common concrete sealers are good for
carpet or floating hardwood floors, but not
gluedowns. Today many hardwood glue
manufacturers offer their own proven sealers
that can be used.
How Flat Should The Subfloor Be?
Manufacturers agree on one thing, subfloor
tolerances should not exceed 3/16" of an
inch over a 10 foot
span. How do we check? In checking
flatness, obtain the straightest piece of
lumber you can find, preferably 8-10 foot in
length. In this case we have a piece of
leftover white oak plank (shown below) that
has proven a valuable source for years. Move
the straightedge over all areas of the sub
floor in opposing directions. High and low
spots should be pencil marked so you know
which areas need to be addressed for repair.
Another method used for checking floor
flatness is with the use of a string line.
Using a helper, grab one end of the line and
stretch it over the subfloor while standing
on the room perimeter. Lower the line so it
touches each side on the surface. By
adjusting up or down you will get an idea of
areas that may be too high or low that need
correction.
Our Findings On This Job
In this case we've found seven areas over
the 1200 square foot installation that need
help with low areas.
The one pictured is the most severe,
measuring an approximate 3/8" dip over a
four foot area. Not correcting these types
of irregularities before the actual
installation results in popping sounds or
squishy feelings under foot after the floor
is installed. You may not notice it
immediately, but it could come to haunt you
months later.
High areas should be grinded, otherwise
you're likely to get a seesaw feeling after
the installation. Grinding creates an
enormous amount dust, but hand held grinders
with vacuum attachments can be used. It will
not collect all the dust but a major portion
of it. In any event be prepared and cover
everything you value.
Big Daddy Concrete Grinder
Close off
other areas of the home and open windows for
good ventilation when grinding. Dust from
grinding
will also get into kitchen cabinets. Don't
expect these hand held concrete grinders to
remove a big hump in a few minutes. Time and
patience will endure. For major problems one
can bring in the Levtec Expander grinder for
flattening concrete subfloors in a flash.
Finding where to rent one of these beauties
may be troublesome, but recently a few
companies that specialize in floor removal
have begun to offer this service.
Floor Leveling Compound?
Now that we've turned your attention from
level to flat, we have leveling
compound. Don't let it confuse you. Let's
just call it floor patch. However it is
called leveling compound in many circles.
There are many choices out there. Home Depot
seems to provide the most accessible source
from our last visit around town. A local
flooring supply store is another option, and
most sell to the general public. It's
important to select a compound that will
cure quickly. Ordinary cement mixed products
will not cure quickly enough and will cause
moisture problems after the installation.
Some names include Mapei and Ardex, with the
latter providing a true floor leveling
characteristic for those that may have
severe problems that require complete work
on the entire concrete slab. It's important
to note, these fast setting compounds
require fast working times. In other words,
make sure you're ready, because this stuff
will harden before you want it to. It may be
wise to play with it first, getting a grasp
on the properties.
Preparing The Patching Compound
Follow all manufacturers specifications
listed on the product container. Most
compounds are mixed with water.
In our example we're using Mapei. First add
water to an empty five gallon bucket and a
portion of the mixture. By using a paddle
type mixer (attached to a drill) we're
looking at getting milk shake consistency.
By not adding water first, you will get a
clumping mixture and won't be able to get to
the compound that will be stuck on the
bottom of the bucket.
Cautionary Note: When doing any mixing, it's
preferable to do so outdoors or in the
garage. This stuff will slop around on
floors and walls if you're not familiar in
working with it.
Applying The Compound
While using the same straight edge, pour an
amount in front of it, moving the material
to the front edge with a float trowel. Pull
the straight edge back over the low area.
This is often termed screeding. It's best to
have one person on each side of the straight
edge/screed. Chances are you won't get a
perfect screed but our area won't be visible
after the installation, so looks aren't
important.
Again, you won't have much time before the
patch begins to harden. Once your first
batch is used up,
proceed directly to the hose for cleanup.
There's nothing worse than dried compound in
the bucket and on the tools. Allowing the
material to harden for 20-30 minutes some
areas can be trowled to a more desired
appearance.
Moisture Testing
In our example (pictures below) we have a
Tramex concrete moisture meter and a common
relative humidity meter. Weather conditions
should be noted for all glue downs. If it's
raining we recommend putting off the job or
close up the house and allow conditions to
reach safe relative humidity levels in the
range of 40-60%.
Dew point and humidity can adversely affect
the bonding of adhesive to all concrete. For
drier climates, we understand the above
mentioned Rh ranges are not practical and
suggest common sense in the event of humid
or rainy weather conditions. If in doubt,
postpone your project until conditions
improve.
While we realize the average consumer won't
have the need for sophisticated testing
equipment, another effective method of
testing for concrete moisture is shown. Duct
tape 2' x 2' pieces of 6 mil or similar poly
film to the slab in several areas of the
layout. Making sure all edges are sealed,
allow to sit 24 - 48 hours. If any
condensation or color changes take place you
have moisture issues that need to be
addressed.
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Testing concrete moisture and Rh |
Duct Tape Visqueen |
More Prep Work. Trimming Door Casings
Quality installations need proper attention
to preparation and detail. What to do around
the door casings is
often
asked. They should be trimmed to the
same height as the flooring so the hardwood
will slide underneath providing a clean
professional appearance. Professionals rely
on power jamb saws that cost $200-300. If
you have a few casings to cut, a hand saw
will work just fine. Using a scrap piece of
wood, lay it directly on the concrete
cutting the casing with the hand saw flat to
the scrap wood.
If you have more than a dozen door casings
to trim, renting a power jamb saw is an
option but hard to locate. Many flooring
tools I've mentioned can also be obtained
online.
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