Aside from
hardwood medallions and other designs seen on
other pages, borders of any design, simple and
intricate are possible. Designs without using
prefabricated products include narrow one
board borders (photo right). Borders in our
photo example can be used from contrasting
hardwoods to define an area. Different sized
widths can be used. While narrow strip
material is often harder to obtain, 2 1/4"
common strip flooring if often used for simple
border designs.
Installing such can be a bit perplexing
requiring the use of a circular saw. In
addition, when the field (main area) is
trimmed, routing and splining of bordered
items should be considered. This insures the
whole project is connected with surface areas
having the same vertical height. Failure to do
so will cause creaking or squeaking sounds
with everyday foot traffic as the boards will
rub against one another.
How
& When Are They Installed? One Strip Border
Example
Borders are easier when the flooring is being
installed. Prior to all work, perimeter areas
should be established. In some cases
installers will begin in the center of the
field so as to allow a perfect alignment of
the final board being the same size on
parallel walls. Measure from each wall and
divide by two to find your center. Once areas
are defined a dry run, or loose lay on
the bordered corners may help insure you have
everything squared properly. More important
would be if you've allowed the proper amount
that will be covered by baseboard or other
trim moldings
Depending on the layout, many installers will
begin working off a preset planned layout. Our
square room example illustrates a black border
starting point on the left side and bottom.
With groove facing into the field on the edge
of the blue chalk lines, install the boards by
firmly pressing to the subfloor with
construction adhesive on the back.
Once you've found the border to be aligned
perfectly, secure the boards to the subfloor
by nailing through the tongue on a 45 degree
angle (also called bind nailing). Insure all
boards are flat and secure to the subfloor
while remaining on the edge of the chalk line
(not shown, covered).
Splines (discussed below) are used to connect
all inside perimeter areas with the field
during starting and interlocking
procedures. Considering hardwood is milled
with tongues on the left side of each board,
the first spline is inserted into the left
side border groove and glued with Titebond or
similar woodworkers glue. Begin the
installation from left to right with groove
facing front. A spline will also be needed for
the starting border on the bottom as well.
Our blue reference chalk lines are stopping
points when running the hardwood left
to right and top to bottom. Fasten all boards
with your tool of choice (flooring stapler or
nailer) inside the area but not over the line,
as the balance that falls over the chalk line
on the right side will be removed with a
straight edge and circular saw.
It is not necessary to install the fill
area or the portion on the outside of our
black border until the rest of the floor has
been laid. In our example, proceed bottom to
top with the tongue facing forward when
starting, stop the last board row as it
approaches the other blue chalk line.
Once the field is completed with opposing
right area trimmed we want to insure this area
interlocks as other sides will. By grabbing a
slot cutter and router this can be
accomplished in short time. It is vital the
groove you are creating on the cut off field
side be the same proportion to the tongue it
will interlock with on the border. Word of
warning; if you do not have a flat subfloor
the router will follow the contour making for
a harder installation. For all main borders
and fill in pieces insure you are using the
straightest boards possible.
Once the field is completed with opposing wall
border trimmed and installed, begin installing
the fill by
working off each corner and into the center.
Corners should be splined if they are mitered.
Our next illustration shows working from each
corner (darker colored brown boards)
For filling in between the corners, boards
will have to be cut to fit. Installers have
varying methods to secure ends that are not
tongue and groove. One method is milling a new
groove (with slot cutter) on the cutoff end,
then removing the bottom portion.
With each and every installer being different
in what works or what they are accustomed to,
one method of securing is by applying an
adhesive on the top of the adjacent tongue
with the new partial grooved end overlapping.
Top and side nailing may also be performed.
Others will apply adhesive to the backside of
the board and subfloor to fasten the board(s).
The procedure described allows for an easier
method instead of trying to align in the
corners.
What's A Spline?
A spline, also known as slip tongue is a small
piece of hardwood that is inserted into the
groove portion when reversing direction of the
tongue and groove system. It becomes a
strengthening or interlocking device when two
grooves are facing on another. Splines should
be glued into place when connecting the two.
Do not leave splines glued overnight without
connecting as they may have a tendency to move
creating severe problems with fit the next
day.
Fancier Borders
Other more intricate border designs are
available prefabricated and are not normally
one solid piece, but
engineered. Types will depend on each
individual manufacturer. They will also be
different in construction as some will be
pre-grooved on all four sides, while others
for solid 3/4" installations will not. Lengths
will also vary but the unofficial standard
runs in the three foot range.
Minimum thickness for prefab borders generally
runs at 3/8 of one inch. Anything thinner
becomes a shipping problem because of their
fragile makeup and number of pieces involved
before installation.
Widths run anywhere from two inches up to
twelve. All prefabricated borders are glued
and not nailed to proper subfloors. |
