Question-
We had a
beautiful Maple hardwood floor installed in July of this
year. Now that the weather has turned colder here in
Chicagoland, the floor looks awful! There are gaps
everywhere and some boards are
beginning to split. What the devil happened and how can
we get someone to fix it?
Reply- I'm guessing the
colder weather has made you turn on the furnace. What
happens with most hardwood when it was installed in
warmer more humid summer months, the installers did not
acclimate the hardwood. Essentially what happened was it
was installed with a high moisture content level then
shrunk with heating. A good way to correct this is
adapting the heating system with a humidifier. That will
close up the gaps but the splitting will be permanent.
Question-
I am thinking of
using wider plank (4 1/4") maple flooring. I have heard
various opinions as to whether this would be a good idea
or not. Some have said that there will be too much
cupping. Others say it would be fine. Any comments or
experiences?
Reply- Maple isn't the most
stable of all North American species. I've seen 3/4"
material cup and it puzzled me too. All proper
guidelines were followed to a tee. In this case is was
very near to water but the flooring was on the second
floor. If you're thinking of engineered there is no need
for concern. If you do choose the solid wide Maple, I've
heard some guys seal the backside of each plank before
it's installed. This does minimize the cupping effects.
Question- We are
considering engineered wood vs. laminate over a slab
floor. The main reason for considering laminate is easy
care, and concerns about the wood fading. We've been
told that wood floors will fade, and if we have
rugs/furniture in one spot for a while and then
rearrange things, there will be a noticeable difference
in the places where the furniture/rugs were due to
fading of the unprotected areas of the floor. We're
going for either maple, or maple-look laminate. Any
advice? Is fading really a big issue w/engineered wood?
We have a skylight in the living room, where the
wood/laminate would be. Are there ways to reduce fading?
Reply- Fading will happen
with any species of hardwood with both engineered and
solid products. Some happen to change color more than
others, especially exotics. You could look into window
treatments that cut down on UV rays. As for Maple, there
are changes in color but will very very slight,
sometimes not noticeable but will depend on the type of
finish used.
Question-
I've been looking
at maple floors for our home addition. I understand
Maple is much harder than oak but can you tell us how
much harder? Are there any negatives with maple floors
to consider?
Reply- It really depends on
the product as there are several types of maples. The
harder ones are obtained out of Canada. Negatives?
Yes...see attached...Additionally, maple has more of an
open grain and some are concerned that it shows more
damage with scratching.
Question-
I am buying a new
construction loft which is to have floating maple
floors. They were just put down, and the problem is I
think they look terrible because you can see several
gaps between the panels (a few are large enough to
insert a credit card with plenty of slack). Is this
expected? I've lived on a lot of hardwood floors and
they have never looked like this. I need to know if I
should be insistent with the builder to make it better.
Please help.
Reply- The way I see it the
only way of making it better is to have it replaced. It
sounds like a poor installation to me unless there are
flaws with the material itself. Once a floating floor is
installed it expands and contracts as a whole instead of
individual planks that are nailed to the subfloor.
Question-
We're planning on
installing prefinished Maple floors and not sure if we
should go with matching maple quarter round. Can you
help?
Reply- It's more of
personal taste with what you decide. Some people prefer
the use of painted white shoe molding or whatever the
base color is. Regular sized quarter round that is 3/4"
X 3/4" also tends too look bulky for lack of a better
term.
Question-
My floor place is
charging me roughly $10/sf for the Mirage Maple and $3/sf
for install. Fine. However, the estimate goes to 9 boxes
(180 sf) when I have roughly 141 sf of flooring to be
done. He assures me if they don't use the ninth box they
won't charge me either materials or labor on it. If they
do, I have to pay labor for the whole thing-- for 180 sf
of installation as well as flooring, even if I only need
one board out of the last box. I can see my way to
paying for the materials since I know there is wastage,
but it annoys me no end to pay for 180 sf of
installation when they are only installing 141 actual sf.
Is this typical?
Reply- Hard to say. There
may be other items associated with the installation.
It's always a wise idea to order more than you need or
have a box or two left over depending on the square
footage involved. Manufacturers change their lines and
construction every now and then. Finding one box of this
or that becomes a nightmare should some areas get
damaged and need replacement.
Question- We're wanting to
stain our maple floors but many contractors are not
interested saying they turn out blotchy. Is this true?
Reply- Yes, Maple floors
can be a real bugger to stain. If you're looking for a
stained Maple our suggestion would be to find a
prefinished product that suits your desires.
Both Mirage and Lauzon offer good
color selections.
Question- Now that we have
finally decided on site finished flooring versus
prefinished floors we are trying to decide
whether to
get the more expensive maple or the much less expensive
oak - no stain, natural finish. We love maple because it
is so light and clear. But it will likely cost a few
thousand more than oak. Any thoughts or pros or cons on
one versus the other (besides cost)? We do not like dark
floors so either choice will be light. Also, any
comments on gloss, satin or matte finish?
Reply- Due to the open
graining of Maple it will show damage more readily
compared to any specie that is grainy such as the oaks.
Gloss will show every scratch. Satin seems to be today's
choice. Some complain of the fake look with matte
finishes.
Question-
I am replacing
existing stairs which lead to my living room. My living
room has natural maple floors. I have to choose between
replacing with the same hardwood for the treads and
risers or use maple for the tread and painted white
risers. Can you help in my decision?
Reply- This is more of a
personal taste issue. I prefer the look of painted white
risers but they will show shoe markings and other dirt
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