Starting the Installation - Page Three

Getting That First Row Installed

Now that we have our underlayment laid out and control line in place, the next step calls for fastening that starter row. For areas along the parallel wall lines always try to unitize the longest and straightest boards you can find, as it minimizes gapping while keeping a true straight start. It is also recommended when racking to keep an eye on the better boards of the bunch and set them aside to use in other areas we will need them.

Set Another Chalk Line

Depending on what width hardwood you are installing this line will be different. Our job calls for a 3 1/4" wide prefinished Bruce hardwood in Winter White. Incidentally, this was a cabin grade product installed in 2003, purchased off the internet, with the customer full Starting chalk line aware of what to expect with a cabin grade hardwood. More on cabin grade below.

Considering solid hardwood floors are started with tongue facing out, we used our 3 1/4 inch board width and added 1/4" for the tongue. This insures the chalk line is not covered and seen. By adding another 3/8" inch for expansion our line was measured 3 7/8" off the drywall.

That's Not Much Expansion Area There Fella

Granted it does bend the general rule of allowing 3/4 of an inch that many specify. There are exceptions for smaller layouts as this one only dealt with a 200 square foot room. The customer had also preferred 1/2" thickness baseboard so a larger expansion area would not work.

Nail That First Row

The start of any installation is the most important. Often boards do not like to stay on the chalk line when nailing begins. Here's a neat trick to prevent movement. Cut some small Wedge to keep first row from moving wedges from hardwood scraps on the miter saw and insert between the first course and the wall or baseboard.

Keep in place until you have four to five rows installed, then they can be removed. When nailing, do so at a 45 degree angle above the tongue. I've noticed some do it yourself sites bring up using a drill and eight penny nails to get the first row installed. Why bother? I think most of us can now afford to rent or borrow a compressor and nail gun these days. Besides the installation goes much quicker and prevents board movement.

In this case we used a Porter Cable pneumatic nail gun that shoots 15 gauge finish nails. This tool should only be used for nailing near walls and not a substitute for installing the Nailing the first row entire floor. Doing so is likely to create squeaks down the road as the fasteners begin to loosen. Finish nails are not flooring nails.

Shown to the right we've not only top nailed as close as possible to the inside edge of the board every 6-8 inches so it becomes less visible, but also nailed above the tongue.

First Row Intact. Moving On

Once the first row is laid, double check all your measurements to your control line. It should be dead on had you measured out from the wall in the same locations. Depending on what width hardwood you're using, the nail gun may be needed for the next row or until the actual flooring stapler can fit into the area.

About That Stapler

Although we have a comprehensive page dealing with nailers and staplers, a little note not covered. Not only does a pneumatic fastener require the proper air pressure adjustment, Make sure the stapler is sitting on the tongue but it needs to sit flat and square with the tongue of the floor when engaging.

Take your time with it. Professional installers know how to handle this tool and if you should happen to see them in action you'll be amazed at how fast they work...in the open areas. If the tool does not fit snug and square above the tongue when the staple penetrates, it may not allow the next board to fit snug without gapping.

Let me try to clarify; A staple in the wrong place is a bugger to remove. It cannot be tapped in with a nail set unless it's very close to where it should be. Some guys actually use the side of a big screwdriver to get it home. However if the staple needs another 1/4 inch to seat in the proper location, it should be removed. Another option is using some wire/metal snips. Cut both sides of the staple as Cutting staples close to the wood as possible and set from there.

Removing an entire board that has been stapled is not a easy task. Take your time and make sure the stapler is where it should be before tapping the plunger. With staples that miss the tongue and get lodged into the surface of the floor, the only recourse is removing the entire board.

Other Notes

If your handling any installation, specifically a prefinished floor check the plate on the underside of the fastener. Even though it's a vinyl nylon, anything embedded in the bottom will scratch the floor.

Go To: Installing Against Angled Walls
Back To: Installing Hardwood With Fasteners - Introduction

Other Pages In This Series:

• Starting The Hardwood Installation - nailing the first few rows, expansion
• Installing Hardwood Against Angled Walls
• Hardwood Runs Into Other Rooms. How To - staying straight
• Change Direction Of Hardwood Floor - reversing

Related Pages:

• Solid Hardwood Floors - different types
• Hardwood Floor Nailer - staplers too
• Expansion Gaps and Hardwood Floors
• Hardwood Flooring Humidity
• How Many Nails or Staples Are Needed?
• Installing Wood Floors On An Angle
• Rosin Or Felt Paper?
• Aquabar Underlayment - the new alternative