Many often get
the terminology confused when
discussing subfloors. We've included
some excerpts from our message board
offered by one of our regular
contributors, Gary Clontz of Antioch,
California.
Wood Subfloors
Wood subfloors
are the deck/wood floor a home is
built on. The sub flooring can be
different materials and is
always attached directly to the
joists/trusses. Wood subfloors are
predominant in areas where basements
are common. Go in your
basement/crawlspace and look between
your joists. That material nailed to
the tops of your floor joists is your
subfloor.
Concrete Subfloors
Concrete
subfloors are more common in the
southeast United States, along the
gulf coast, low deserts and into many
areas of California. Concrete
subfloors have no basements below.
During the initial construction
process footers are dug, then your
actual subfloor is poured concrete.
Underlayment
If your have a
vinyl floor in your home and you have
wood subfloors, most likely you will
have underlayment. Underlayment is
used to provide a smoother substrate
for some floor coverings, like sheet
vinyl. It is also used to raise one
area up to be even with another floor.
It is also used to provide a suitable
substrate for tile(like Hardi Backer
Board) and used to stiffen the
subfloor.
Underlayment comes in many types
including; particle board, plywood,
OSB, cementious tile backer board,
sheet rock has been used, luan,
masonite, etc. As time moves forward,
more are being developed all the time.
Underlayments are not subfloors and
subfloors are not underlayments.
Underlayments can be safely removed;
Subfloors should never be removed
except in cases of damage or
remodeling and only by licensed,
knowledgeable contractors.
Underlayment always go on top of
subfloors and are usually stapled but
can be nailed, glued, screwed, etc.
As far as wood subfloors go, this is
what NOFMA (National Oak Flooring
Manufactures Association) and NWFA
(National Wood Flooring Association)
have to say. All solid wood floors
should be nailed down (nail,
staple/cleat) to an approved wood
subfloor. Approved wood subfloors are
listed in order; best to least
preferable. This is based purely on
the materials nail holding capability.
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• Best:
1" x 6" solid #2 or better
Douglas fir or frame grade pine
boards installed diagonally
across floor joists 16" on
center(OC) |
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• Next:
3/4" T&G Sturdi Floor plywood
subflooring installed at 90
degrees to joists 16" OC.
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• Next:
3/4" OSB (Orientated Strand
Board) T&G subflooring installed
90 degrees to joists 16" OC.
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• Next:
5/8" T&G plywood subfloor
installed at 90 degrees to
joists 16" OC. |
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There are
other older subfloor systems one
may encounter and not used
anymore. They include:
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• 1&1/8"
T&G plywood subfloor installed
at 90 degrees to 4"x 6" beams
spaced 4 feet OC. |
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• 1&1/2"
x 5" T&G solid fir deck boards
installed at 90 degrees to 4" x
6" beams spaced 4'00" OC.
|
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• 1x8
solid fir/pine boards installed
at 90 degrees to joists spaced
16" OC. |
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• 1"
RED-X T&G particle board
subfloor installed at 90 degrees
to joists spaced 2'00" OC.
|
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• 3/4" or
5/8" particle board found mostly
today in modular and mobile
homes. |
Older subfloors
shown above should not be removed
but overlaid with 1/2" CDX plywood
that is well stapled (2" around
perimeter and 6" OC) or glued and
nailed/screwed. In all cases,
subfloors and underlayments are to be
flat to within a 3/16" tolerance in an
8-10 foot radius.
When gluing down an engineered floor
over a solid lumber subfloor, you will
need an underlayment of 3/8" plywood,
at least. When gluing down to a
plywood or OSB subfloor, many are
tempted not to use an underlayment. I
prefer to use a 3/8" plywood
underlayment nailed or screwed over a
plywood subfloor when gluing down a
wood floor. Should the floor need to
be repaired or replaced, it is
easier/better with underlayment than
with the subfloor.
Subfloors For 3/4" Hardwood
Installations
The more
preferred type of subfloors would
include those mentioned above. NO
pressboard or particleboard. Always
consult the manufacturers
specifications. Sub floor squeaks
should be addressed prior to any
installation, by way of screws or ring
shank nails. Accessing from below may
become necessary. Sub floor
construction should have expansion
areas of their own in the area of
1/8-1/4" between boards or sheets of
ply.
Concrete Subfloors For Glue Down
Installations
For installation
of glue down hardwood products, the
concrete itself should be allowed to
cure a minimum of 60 days. Allowing
longer periods is highly suggested. To
test for concrete moisture, duct tape
a 2' X 2' piece of poly film to the
slab in several locations for 24-48
hours. If the slab turns color or
water condensation forms under the
poly, corrective measures should be
addressed.
Other methods of testing would be with
the use of a moisture meter. Ordinary concrete sealers
should not be used when considering
glue down type floors as they will
interfere with the adhesive transfer.
Failure is very likely. In recent
years several adhesive manufacturers
have introduced sealers used for this
purpose. A few include Bostiks MVP and
others manufactured by DriTac, Sika,
and Taylor Adhesives.
More Information Below. Not
Subfloors But Worth Noting With
Hardwood Installations
Terrazzo Floors and Hardwood
Installations
Terrazzo floors are suitable for
hardwood installations with floating
engineered floors being a good choice.
Terrazzo floors can also receive glue
down installation types but should
only be considered with very
knowledgeable professionals. Residues
from waxes or previous cleanings will
create a bond problem with the
adhesive and the terrazzo itself.
These types of floors should be
cleaned thoroughly with mineral
spirits and scarified with a very
course grit to assist in adhesive
bondage.
Ceramic Tiled Floors and Hardwood
Installations
It is usually suggested to remove
ceramic tile for the installation of
hardwood floors but floating floor
systems become an alternative.
Saltillo or Mexican tiled floors will
require substantial floor preparation
to create a flat surface for hardwood
flooring. Other more common types of
ceramic tile floors may not need
preparation providing the grout lines
are small and tiles have a uniform
surface.
One disadvantage of hardwood floors
over ceramic tile would be the
increased vertical height of the floor
itself when compared to adjacent floor
coverings. On occasion, the extra
height also brings on difficulties
with finding suitable transition
pieces from hardwood to other areas.
Most of the transitions for these
applications are constructed where
minimal height difference is involved.
Often custom made thresholds become
necessary.
Hardwood Floor Installations Over
Existing Sheet Vinyl Floors
For nail or staple down hardwood
floors it is not necessary to remove
existing vinyl as it will provide an
excellent
moisture barrier. However in
many cases, vinyl floors may have an
additional subfloor of their own;
typically 3/16" luan or birch material
that was used for preparation of the
vinyl (smooth surface). If you should
have vinyl installed, as an example in
the foyer only, chances are good an
additional sub floor is underneath. It
will become necessary to remove should
you want new hardwood floors to flow
through the area. The same may be true
with kitchens and other areas where
vinyl is commonplace.
For those with sheet vinyl glued over
concrete who prefer glue down type
hardwood floors; it is imperative the
entire area be secure. If in doubt
remove it, as you may have a bond
transfer problem with the hardwood
adhesive or the vinyl may come loose.
It is suggested to look into the age
of the existing vinyl or linoleum for
asbestos. Engineered hardwood floors
are not recommended to be glued direct
over vinyl composition tile (VCT).
Floating installations are suggested.
An alternative would be to install
another subfloor (3/8" plywood) over
it and install with your glue down
choice. |